Almost a year back an internet petition did the rounds amongst Tamilians to gather support asking UN to declare Madurai Meenakshi amman temple as 'world heritage'. The effort fell flat. As a guy from Tanjore I was intrigued and wanted to check out the temple. I planned a trip to see Madurai. On a eleventh hour impulse I booked the Taj Gateway Resort at Pasumalai for a night. Thankfully so. The resort stay was the ONLY beautiful part of the trip.
The highway from Trichy to Madurai was good. 4 lanes, 2 lanes on either way complete with service exits, entry points at every kilometer. Just as we were cruising smoothly I had the shock of my life. A guy on a motorcycle with an infant straddling on the petrol tank nonchalantly was driving against the traffic in our lane. This was not an isolated incident and not just two wheelers. Simple reason, the drivers need to go to a particular spot on the opposite but using the proper entry points might mean an extra kilometer or so. Solution, enter where you need to enter who cares if you are driving like the woman in Matrix. Couple of times we avoided fatal collisions. Welcome to what some NRI's with glassy eyes romantically label as 'mystic touch of India' (of course they are glassy eyed ensconsced abroad where traffic rules are obeyed).
We drove straight into Madurai under benevolent archangel M.K.Azhagiri looking down from a poster at every turn of the road (literally!!). We had to leave our footwear at a building quite away from the temple and walk on tiles (90 deg F). We headed to the sanctum sanctorum straight as they would close in 2 hours (12:30 PM). Two placards told us to buy tickets. We could buy Rs15 ticket (really long queue) or Rs100 (long queue). Thanks to my US dollars without a second thought I bought Rs 100 tickets for the family. Even the lords know the value of money. But what the lords truly respect more than money is political or beauracratic power.
It was a Sunday so the faithful had turned out in droves despite the sweltering heat. Forget about fans to cool, there was no exhaust to take out the heat. The lines snaked mercilessly. Lacking in blind faith I dropped out. That was it for me. But I stayed close as my faithful mom stuck on. I and my dad stood by and watched some interesting sights. Two temple staff who were prodding the queue mericilessly shoved women aside who lingered for more than 10 SECONDS, the shoving would be accompanied by choice curses.
We saw that people were being let in through a side door of and on. A priest, bare chested, was cooling himself off, I asked him why this was done. He answered with a quiver "those people are let in by the Superintendent amma". I asked him whether he can point her to me. He was shaking to his barefeet and said "ayyo I cannot do that". Given her imperious nature that woman was easy to spot out. She was stocky, an air of uncouth authority hung about her, she was screaming at a walkie talkie and gesticulating very dictatorially. For a moment freeze this in your mind. The Brahmin priest was too afraid to even identify this woman, let alone stand up against what was wrong. The woman was unmistakably from a reserved class. Before people yell at me let me just say, nothing against her belonging to any class reserved or not. Also in a country where government jobs are indeed given based on caste I am only pointing out the obvious. But look at this Karunanidhi and his minions made a big deal of breaking down the Brahminical exclusivity of becoming priests, of course in the name of social justice. Who in their right mind would want to replace that measly priest????
The hapless priest helpfully added that politicians, relatives of temple authorities, heavy donors get privileged access. While the Pope preaches the virtues of poverty after flying in chartered flight wearing Prada shoes can Meenakshi Amman be behind? At least gender equality is preserved. We did see a Temple authority (a Brahmin now, identified him by the unique way in which he prostrated headlong) walking around imperiously with two cops in tow. Damn the queue for him. The surging crowd of 'huddled masses' meanwhile could barely get a glimpse of their deity.Oh I saw a notice that said "Non-Hindu's not allowed ; should not wear lungis". The temple beaurocrat wore a Veshti. Lungi's are a favorite wear of Muslims.
The temple itself had pedestrian architecture. The sculptures that adorn the roofs and the towers (gopurams) were of deplorable quality and structure. Wikipedia gives more details than any onsite plaque http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meenakshi_Amman_Temple .
I then visited the adjacent "Thousand Pillar hall". That hall had shelves with some archeological pieces. The shelves laden with dust surely attest to the ancient history of what was displayed. Imagine walking barefeet on stone to reach the hall on a hot summer day. I've nothing against making me remove my slippers in the name of tradition but suitable arrangements should be made. If I say things like I get brickbats about not hearing the "whispers of traditions in my ears". Some deaf ears I have.
The next day we visited Thirumalai Naicker Mahal. Mani Ratnam had used this venue memorably in his "Iruvar". When drove around to the entrance we were greeted by a guy who was happily urinating next to a "do not urinate" sign. The entrance was difficult because a dumpster was overflowing with a month's worth of variegated stinking dump that would make a skunk run away with disgust. But we persisted on going in. I bought Rs 5 tickets (RS30 for still camera) before I could identify the ticket vendor I wandered into the building if somebody had not yelled "sir come here to get tickets" I'd have thought the building was a movie set to depict war ravaged buildings in Stalingrad. Only after I bought the tickets did I notice that foreigners have to pay twice the amount. I've been a foreigner visiting Europe (as Indian and American) never have I paid any differential pricing. Indians happily visit the Smithsonians in DC without paying a penny.
We stepped into the Mahal. A dishevelled guy, unshaven and unkempt gruntingly asked for the tickets. He tore the tickets into halves. We were handed a torn half as souvenir while he dumped the other half into a bucket that used to have paint and was now a waste basket. The famous light and sound show has now resumed but we are cautioned that "no refunds due to current cuts". Long Live Kalaignar. Its a simple Durbar like construction that Mani Ratnam had skillfully made into character in the movie. One rickety metal board informed us that the Mahal was identified and renovated by governor of Madras John Napier (God bless the British, it was Lord Curzon who formed the 'Archeological Survey of India' to inventory and protect the treasures of India). The dance hall houses some ancient artifacts in the most deplorable and insulting conditions one can imagine.
We stepped out into a courtyard to find a nice collection of statues only when the stench hit us did I realize that the collection was right next to a toilet that a pig would consider too stinking to use (dead rats and lizards and other unmentionables). There was a commemorative plaque informing that a certain MLA was proud to have inaugurated the toilets!!!!!!
Lets take a breather. The temple is managed by the government and is a shining example governmental incompetence exceeded only by the imperiousness of its bloated babus (pun intended). The Archeological Survey of India and the Tourism ministry outdo each other in insulting history. But then the orientals are yet to learn the meaning of "objective history" or "professional historian".
I think back with lots of pain about the immense pleasure I got out of visiting historical landmarks in the west. When Indians react with smugness looking at 'stolen' treasures in British museums I say "at least the treasures are where they are respected".
I shall talk about the wonderful experience of the resort and more importantly the happy saree shopping at Madurai Pothys. Both represent a slice of the nice part of a nation that is learning its table manners before sitting at the table on par with the developed world.
Monday, June 7, 2010
Saturday, June 5, 2010
India: A million mutinies -- Still.
Nothing grates the heart of preening pseudo-patriotic Indians as much as a one-time Indian and now expatriate who holds up a mirror to the seedy underbelly (actualy its more than an underbelly) of a nation that, as a national sport, indulges in breast beating and pats itself lost in imaginary visions of sitting at the table of G8.
When visiting Indians ( or past citizens) voice disappointments we are greeted with "why bother coming here" followed by pious lecturing on "Indian values" (from which most ran away from to USA/Canada/UK), quotes from Friedman's books or the famous Goldman Sachs report that prophesied an India, in 2050, hving GDP close to USA. The ranking of Ambanis on Forbes listing, Azim Premji's net worth, Tatas buying luxury car maker Jaguar, Bollowood churning out 100 times more than Hollywood, the price of square foot at Nariman Point exceeding a sq.ft in Manhattan, brand stores, cars on the roads, oh the number of so-called graduates and so much more would flow from a mouth foaming at its ends and a chest heaving with inhaled hot-air.
Did I expect India to be like USA or France or Germany? Absolutely NOT. I am in touch with day-to-day reality reading news papers in India and through my parents. Just today my dad, a pensioner, recounted the horrors of dealing with clerks to get his pension redirected to his new address.
Has there been progress in the country? Ofcourse yes. Only an ostrich can deny it in totality. Today a good graduate has more options and much better social mobility than ever before in Indian history. The serious disconnect is much progress in the country is taking place OUTSIDE of public policy and sometimes despite the government. The country is admirably taking advantage of loosening controls. But in any country and in any age there is a role for government and in that sphere India is still stuck and very badly stuck.
I took a train from Egmore to Trichy. The station was a microcosm of everything that is still wrong. 50 people queued up to buy water, good distilled water that is, in sweltering heat. No 'decent' public amenities were available. The improvements done in the station are no match for the exponentially increasing needs, many are basic needs not luxury, of a seething population. "Population" is a popular excuse. If China is pointed as alternative we are met with "of they are a dictatorship we are a fractious democracy". This is pathetic we do not need a dictator to provide clean toilets and drinking water.
We were booked into an a/c chair car. I wish I could upload the pictures I took. The cabin was just plain gross. What is the point of having an a/c chair car if vendors with hot dosas, hot samosas keep streaming in and out and practically ensuring that the cabin is hot. The curtains had never seen a washing detergent. The carpet at the vestibule in the airport was too dirty to be even used in a toilet. Remember Indian airports charge heavy taxes on airlines and we consumers pay for it through our tickets.
I took a roundtrip in an auto from Adyar to Egmore. I can swear that nothing has changed. Yes, maybe a mall here and there but it was the same old Madras. Forget the dust, its a tropical country. The traffic mayhem was just ridiculous, signals were for decoration, of course the ubiqiutous corrupt traffic cop (I saw a cop getting bribes) were all just worsened.
A big mall is being constructed near Egmore. When it is complete more Chennai-ites would feel proud about the gleaming shopping mall, "oh did you know they have 1000+ stores, what amount of parking space yaar". Yesterday I saw the construction going on, cables were dug up in mid road, mounds of excavated sand were gathered obstructing traffic, the worker was carrying bricks barehanded, scantily clad, bathed in sweat, a pathetic barely functional slipper (100 deg F), no protection from either sun or a wayward truck or from dangers inherent in what he was doing.
Just today in the flats were my parents live I saw a woman carry ten bricks on her head with a cloth bundle barely cushioning her head, walking barefoot up the flights 4 stories (no workers elevator please, no protection for hands). After sometime I saw the workers gathered around a mug sharing a most unhygienically made coffee, that too just a sip.
Yes, India, especially Chennai, today manufactures BMW's but the roads are an apology for a road. What country can afford to have 3 hours of blackouts EVERYDAY in peak summer? Yes I am typing this on broadband and our car driver has a cell phone. Yes, our car driver is paid Rs 5000 per month+ daily allowance (My starting salary as Engineer was Rs 3000 in 1998). With inflation, a year ago, raging at 12% (officially that is, in truth much more) such salaries are useless. Thanks to burgeoning corporate travel car drivers can earn much more decently than before, still so much of the country is way beyond their reach.
Is India in a much better place than in 1998 (when I emigrated)? Certainly, yes. But India is still ranked at the bottom of the human development index and for that I do not see an end in sight.
Naysayers like me do India a much greater service than jingoists sitting in a/c rooms and debating about when India's GDP will come close to USA.
I've much more to share on just the people alone ...for another day.
When visiting Indians ( or past citizens) voice disappointments we are greeted with "why bother coming here" followed by pious lecturing on "Indian values" (from which most ran away from to USA/Canada/UK), quotes from Friedman's books or the famous Goldman Sachs report that prophesied an India, in 2050, hving GDP close to USA. The ranking of Ambanis on Forbes listing, Azim Premji's net worth, Tatas buying luxury car maker Jaguar, Bollowood churning out 100 times more than Hollywood, the price of square foot at Nariman Point exceeding a sq.ft in Manhattan, brand stores, cars on the roads, oh the number of so-called graduates and so much more would flow from a mouth foaming at its ends and a chest heaving with inhaled hot-air.
Did I expect India to be like USA or France or Germany? Absolutely NOT. I am in touch with day-to-day reality reading news papers in India and through my parents. Just today my dad, a pensioner, recounted the horrors of dealing with clerks to get his pension redirected to his new address.
Has there been progress in the country? Ofcourse yes. Only an ostrich can deny it in totality. Today a good graduate has more options and much better social mobility than ever before in Indian history. The serious disconnect is much progress in the country is taking place OUTSIDE of public policy and sometimes despite the government. The country is admirably taking advantage of loosening controls. But in any country and in any age there is a role for government and in that sphere India is still stuck and very badly stuck.
I took a train from Egmore to Trichy. The station was a microcosm of everything that is still wrong. 50 people queued up to buy water, good distilled water that is, in sweltering heat. No 'decent' public amenities were available. The improvements done in the station are no match for the exponentially increasing needs, many are basic needs not luxury, of a seething population. "Population" is a popular excuse. If China is pointed as alternative we are met with "of they are a dictatorship we are a fractious democracy". This is pathetic we do not need a dictator to provide clean toilets and drinking water.
We were booked into an a/c chair car. I wish I could upload the pictures I took. The cabin was just plain gross. What is the point of having an a/c chair car if vendors with hot dosas, hot samosas keep streaming in and out and practically ensuring that the cabin is hot. The curtains had never seen a washing detergent. The carpet at the vestibule in the airport was too dirty to be even used in a toilet. Remember Indian airports charge heavy taxes on airlines and we consumers pay for it through our tickets.
I took a roundtrip in an auto from Adyar to Egmore. I can swear that nothing has changed. Yes, maybe a mall here and there but it was the same old Madras. Forget the dust, its a tropical country. The traffic mayhem was just ridiculous, signals were for decoration, of course the ubiqiutous corrupt traffic cop (I saw a cop getting bribes) were all just worsened.
A big mall is being constructed near Egmore. When it is complete more Chennai-ites would feel proud about the gleaming shopping mall, "oh did you know they have 1000+ stores, what amount of parking space yaar". Yesterday I saw the construction going on, cables were dug up in mid road, mounds of excavated sand were gathered obstructing traffic, the worker was carrying bricks barehanded, scantily clad, bathed in sweat, a pathetic barely functional slipper (100 deg F), no protection from either sun or a wayward truck or from dangers inherent in what he was doing.
Just today in the flats were my parents live I saw a woman carry ten bricks on her head with a cloth bundle barely cushioning her head, walking barefoot up the flights 4 stories (no workers elevator please, no protection for hands). After sometime I saw the workers gathered around a mug sharing a most unhygienically made coffee, that too just a sip.
Yes, India, especially Chennai, today manufactures BMW's but the roads are an apology for a road. What country can afford to have 3 hours of blackouts EVERYDAY in peak summer? Yes I am typing this on broadband and our car driver has a cell phone. Yes, our car driver is paid Rs 5000 per month+ daily allowance (My starting salary as Engineer was Rs 3000 in 1998). With inflation, a year ago, raging at 12% (officially that is, in truth much more) such salaries are useless. Thanks to burgeoning corporate travel car drivers can earn much more decently than before, still so much of the country is way beyond their reach.
Is India in a much better place than in 1998 (when I emigrated)? Certainly, yes. But India is still ranked at the bottom of the human development index and for that I do not see an end in sight.
Naysayers like me do India a much greater service than jingoists sitting in a/c rooms and debating about when India's GDP will come close to USA.
I've much more to share on just the people alone ...for another day.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Brussels: Museum for musical instruments, chocolates, paperbacks etc.
We are winding up Brussels tonight. to put that out. When I scoped out the museums to visit one museum caught my eye. This is a museum for musical instruments. The museum was simply breathtaking. 3 floors of just hundreds of musical instruments drawn from every corner of the world. In each popular instrument that we know, like say a violin, there are tens of varieties. Tens of varieties of flutes, of drums, of trmpets, blow horns, pianos by the dozens, mouth harps and so many many more. We were given a headset that will play the particular sound from an instrument where its indicated with a headphone sign. However the radio signal is not of high quality, many times the audio was not great. The total lack of brochures or notes in English is a sure dampener for a really interested enthusiast.But music needs no language, there is always the internet to go back and read. It was an anthropological delight to see many Indian instruments classified as "from Afghanistan" etc. African music is famous the instruments from Africa are truly numerous and what vibrancy. So many forms of music across the ages. Its a humbling experience too. We come to face the truth that we are but a small speck in the ocean of humanity in a time scale that stretches beyond our ability to comprehend and analyse in one lifetime. Visiting the museum had the desired effect on Rowena who wanted to go back to her piano classes after vacation as soon as possible. She happily lingered at every audio demo. For 5 Euro its well worth it (no charge for child under 6).
Time for wrap up we went shopping for Belgian chocolates. Wittamer chocolates are considered the creme-de-la-creme, better than Godiva or Neuhaus or Leonidas (now why is a Belgian chocolate brand named after a Greek warrior!!!). Wittamer also has restaurants serving tea and snacks at 16 Euro per person for fixed price course menu.
The obsessive shopper in me managed to squeeze in a visit to a mall. The only one (as far I saw) in Brussels. After browsing through clothing I went to FNAC a books and music store. I've found a curiosity about books sold in US vs Europe. In Europe paperback versions come out much earlier than US. I bought paperback version of Malcolm GLadwell's "Outliers" in July in UK but in USA they are still sold only in hardcover (better profits). Today I found the latest Malcolm Gladwell bestseller "What the Dog saw" in paperback, its just out in USA in a much higher priced hardcover version. When it comes to movies whether its France or Amsterdam or Germany or Belgium Hollywood simply rules, period.
I forgot a few observations in my blog yesterday about "atomium" and "mini Europe". The exhibit on immigration underscored that Brussels culture and ethos has its roots in Christian ethos. While this is a widely accepted anthropological truism it takes a certain brazenness to put it out on an exhibition. A widely read book by Max Weber attributes US capitalism to specifically "Protestant" ethos but no US government funded exhibition would dare to put that out.
Time for wrap up we went shopping for Belgian chocolates. Wittamer chocolates are considered the creme-de-la-creme, better than Godiva or Neuhaus or Leonidas (now why is a Belgian chocolate brand named after a Greek warrior!!!). Wittamer also has restaurants serving tea and snacks at 16 Euro per person for fixed price course menu.
The obsessive shopper in me managed to squeeze in a visit to a mall. The only one (as far I saw) in Brussels. After browsing through clothing I went to FNAC a books and music store. I've found a curiosity about books sold in US vs Europe. In Europe paperback versions come out much earlier than US. I bought paperback version of Malcolm GLadwell's "Outliers" in July in UK but in USA they are still sold only in hardcover (better profits). Today I found the latest Malcolm Gladwell bestseller "What the Dog saw" in paperback, its just out in USA in a much higher priced hardcover version. When it comes to movies whether its France or Amsterdam or Germany or Belgium Hollywood simply rules, period.
I forgot a few observations in my blog yesterday about "atomium" and "mini Europe". The exhibit on immigration underscored that Brussels culture and ethos has its roots in Christian ethos. While this is a widely accepted anthropological truism it takes a certain brazenness to put it out on an exhibition. A widely read book by Max Weber attributes US capitalism to specifically "Protestant" ethos but no US government funded exhibition would dare to put that out.
Cologne: A Cathedral and a Jail.
Long back I read a book by Ved Mehta, an autobio set in the 50's. Ved Mehta is blind and has authored many books on India ( Gandhi and jis apostles). Ved would talk about going from country to country in Europe on a whim, he was an American citizen. I always fancied that. Even watching the Bourne movies I fancy going from country to country with no thought to spare. In Europe, as many know, with a Schengen visa or a EU/US citizenship its possible.
When I planned this trip I planned to make Brussels my anchor city and try to visit neighboring cities in Netherlands and Germany. On Tuesday, June 1st, we went to Cologne, Germany. Thanks to http://www.raileurope.com/ we could figure out the trains. That site is only for booking trains while you are still in USA. So we had to go the train station (Brussels Midi).
Europeans are a relaxed people. I've never seen them act in a hurry. The ticketing clerks took their own glacial pace in doing their job. I imagined them for a minute at New York Penn station, they would go insane, put them inCentral Station Chennai they will positively go insane. Europe's fast trains (TGV, Thalys etc) are a boon for travelers. Brussels to Cologne is just a 2 hour ride. Mostly the first class fares are only $20 more and come with lunch/food. Since our return was supposed to be around dinner time I chose first class (when that dinner was just cold cut slice of smoked salmon I truly regretted the choice, this to a guy who traveled by day express from Tanjore to Madras to enjoy Biryani at Vizhuppuram).
Cologne is known ONLY for its famous Cathedral, called 'Cologne Cathedral". Its supposed to house some relics of the "Three Magi" or "three kings" who visited the CHild Jesus in Bethlehem according to biblical mythology. I've seen Cathedrals elsewhere but nothing prepared me for what I saw. The Cathedral is right outside the train station at Cologne (properly spelled Kolne in German). After filling ourselves with Burger King burgers we stepped out of the station and faced one of the biggest cathedrals in the world. The sheer size and intricate Gothic architecure simply overwhelmed me. After seeing that I think only the Vatican Sistine CHapel can impress me more, nothing else can.
I've lived 25 years close to Brahadeeswara temple and marveled at what people can accomplish in the name of faith. My school texts taught me about Angkor Wat, Aztec ruins and Mayan temples. Cologne Cathedral is the closest in near future for me to experience those. Wherever we went inside the cathedral history of more than 4 centuries looked down on us.
Coming out of the cathedral we headed to a tourist office. That is another thing I love traveling in the west. One stop into the tourist office is always helpful, get a map, inquire about local sights and tours. When I asked what else is there to see in Cologne other than the Cathedral and a Nazi era jail only a smile was the answer. Off we headed to a jail that is two blocks away from the cathedral. This jail was used by Nazi's.
I've read that even in Berlin a tourist has to seek the Nazi related spots. THey are not marked well. The reason is Germany does not want such spots to become shrines to Neo-Nazis. "Popularising" Nazi related spots is actively discouraged. In Germany its a punishable crime to deny the holocaust or to display the hated 'swastika' (problem for indians who consider it holy and have used it for centuries before Nazis).
The jail is not at all publicised as a tourist spot. Its just mentioned in the brochures only a discerning tourist or one who goes with a professional guide can find it. When our train crossed into Germany at Aachen I felt a thrill. Having read extensively about World War II (thanks to William Shirer etc) I felt a tingle entering Hitler's Germany. Germany, despite its many, many philosophers, musicians, writers, artists etc is instinctively known and felt as Hitler's Germany. Preeth who normally prays in a cathedral said at Cologne she did not feel so thinking that the top Nazis would have sat in the front pews and prayed while killing millions.
The jail is now officially called "El-De Haus" (LD House, LD being the intials of the businessman who built it. Gestapo acquired it from him and converted it to a jail). The jail now houses the "The city of Cologne's Documentation Centre on National Socialism". Throughout the brochures and pamphlets only the words "National Socialism" is used not its more horrifying short form "Nazi".
While inquiring our way I was very skeptical and somewhat scared to ask of it as "the Nazi Jail", I'd just point the place on our tourist map and ask. One white German guy, with a gleam in his eye asked "oh you want to see the Nazi Jail". For a minute I truly felt spine chilling.
We did finally find it, like I said its now non-descript and the building bears a benign sounding name "documentation centre". Documentation. My foot. We were greeted by a German at the reception. Seeing that we were Indians he inquired about "God of small things" and "shiva/vishnu". I told him that it was a German, Max Mueller, who translated the vedas for indians. We had only 30 mins left before closing. So we just went downstairs to the jail. The cells are filled with scribblings and memorial plaques filled with heart rending quotes. Prisoners had been brought from Russia and Poland. Just imagine the logistics and money involved in transporting prisoners across the continent. HItler was not just waging war. When I watched a documentary on Auschwitz I was dumbstruck by the dogged hatred to eliminate a race by going to such great lengths while waging a world war. I thought, if he had just waged war maybe the outcome could have been different. But wait when I say "he" I do not mean to absolve the millions of Germans and Poles etc who took active part in the holocaust and war crimes. In fact thats what puzzles sociologists till today. How could people from supposedly the cradle of civilization act thus.Take Anne Frank in Amsterdam. Jews were persecuted in Amsterdam by neighbors and friends. Anne Frank's hideout was betrayed for 30 marks or something.
To shake ourselves from the stupor we hurried out and took a bus tour. We did not hop off. When a bus tour keeps looping around shopping malls you can guess there is nothing much in the city to see. One interesting mall was the Burberry shop. Its a glass building designed by an Italian. I mused, here is globalization, a building architected by an Italian to house a British Brand (Burberry) in a german city.
It was a surreal day to visit Cologne, especially the jail. Just the previous evening while sauntering around Brussels we saw a huge protest gathering in front of their Foreign office. All had green flags with crescent moon, so I presumed it must be Muslims protesting. Only when I checked the internet did I find the world enraged at the Israel flotilla incident. Next day in the train station I saw European newspapers all screaming murder. Now slowly considered opinion is emerging and saying "not so fast". But hey when it comes to Israel who cares about facts or waiting to know facts. I shall just leave it at that.
When I planned this trip I planned to make Brussels my anchor city and try to visit neighboring cities in Netherlands and Germany. On Tuesday, June 1st, we went to Cologne, Germany. Thanks to http://www.raileurope.com/ we could figure out the trains. That site is only for booking trains while you are still in USA. So we had to go the train station (Brussels Midi).
Europeans are a relaxed people. I've never seen them act in a hurry. The ticketing clerks took their own glacial pace in doing their job. I imagined them for a minute at New York Penn station, they would go insane, put them inCentral Station Chennai they will positively go insane. Europe's fast trains (TGV, Thalys etc) are a boon for travelers. Brussels to Cologne is just a 2 hour ride. Mostly the first class fares are only $20 more and come with lunch/food. Since our return was supposed to be around dinner time I chose first class (when that dinner was just cold cut slice of smoked salmon I truly regretted the choice, this to a guy who traveled by day express from Tanjore to Madras to enjoy Biryani at Vizhuppuram).
Cologne is known ONLY for its famous Cathedral, called 'Cologne Cathedral". Its supposed to house some relics of the "Three Magi" or "three kings" who visited the CHild Jesus in Bethlehem according to biblical mythology. I've seen Cathedrals elsewhere but nothing prepared me for what I saw. The Cathedral is right outside the train station at Cologne (properly spelled Kolne in German). After filling ourselves with Burger King burgers we stepped out of the station and faced one of the biggest cathedrals in the world. The sheer size and intricate Gothic architecure simply overwhelmed me. After seeing that I think only the Vatican Sistine CHapel can impress me more, nothing else can.
I've lived 25 years close to Brahadeeswara temple and marveled at what people can accomplish in the name of faith. My school texts taught me about Angkor Wat, Aztec ruins and Mayan temples. Cologne Cathedral is the closest in near future for me to experience those. Wherever we went inside the cathedral history of more than 4 centuries looked down on us.
Coming out of the cathedral we headed to a tourist office. That is another thing I love traveling in the west. One stop into the tourist office is always helpful, get a map, inquire about local sights and tours. When I asked what else is there to see in Cologne other than the Cathedral and a Nazi era jail only a smile was the answer. Off we headed to a jail that is two blocks away from the cathedral. This jail was used by Nazi's.
I've read that even in Berlin a tourist has to seek the Nazi related spots. THey are not marked well. The reason is Germany does not want such spots to become shrines to Neo-Nazis. "Popularising" Nazi related spots is actively discouraged. In Germany its a punishable crime to deny the holocaust or to display the hated 'swastika' (problem for indians who consider it holy and have used it for centuries before Nazis).
The jail is not at all publicised as a tourist spot. Its just mentioned in the brochures only a discerning tourist or one who goes with a professional guide can find it. When our train crossed into Germany at Aachen I felt a thrill. Having read extensively about World War II (thanks to William Shirer etc) I felt a tingle entering Hitler's Germany. Germany, despite its many, many philosophers, musicians, writers, artists etc is instinctively known and felt as Hitler's Germany. Preeth who normally prays in a cathedral said at Cologne she did not feel so thinking that the top Nazis would have sat in the front pews and prayed while killing millions.
The jail is now officially called "El-De Haus" (LD House, LD being the intials of the businessman who built it. Gestapo acquired it from him and converted it to a jail). The jail now houses the "The city of Cologne's Documentation Centre on National Socialism". Throughout the brochures and pamphlets only the words "National Socialism" is used not its more horrifying short form "Nazi".
While inquiring our way I was very skeptical and somewhat scared to ask of it as "the Nazi Jail", I'd just point the place on our tourist map and ask. One white German guy, with a gleam in his eye asked "oh you want to see the Nazi Jail". For a minute I truly felt spine chilling.
We did finally find it, like I said its now non-descript and the building bears a benign sounding name "documentation centre". Documentation. My foot. We were greeted by a German at the reception. Seeing that we were Indians he inquired about "God of small things" and "shiva/vishnu". I told him that it was a German, Max Mueller, who translated the vedas for indians. We had only 30 mins left before closing. So we just went downstairs to the jail. The cells are filled with scribblings and memorial plaques filled with heart rending quotes. Prisoners had been brought from Russia and Poland. Just imagine the logistics and money involved in transporting prisoners across the continent. HItler was not just waging war. When I watched a documentary on Auschwitz I was dumbstruck by the dogged hatred to eliminate a race by going to such great lengths while waging a world war. I thought, if he had just waged war maybe the outcome could have been different. But wait when I say "he" I do not mean to absolve the millions of Germans and Poles etc who took active part in the holocaust and war crimes. In fact thats what puzzles sociologists till today. How could people from supposedly the cradle of civilization act thus.Take Anne Frank in Amsterdam. Jews were persecuted in Amsterdam by neighbors and friends. Anne Frank's hideout was betrayed for 30 marks or something.
To shake ourselves from the stupor we hurried out and took a bus tour. We did not hop off. When a bus tour keeps looping around shopping malls you can guess there is nothing much in the city to see. One interesting mall was the Burberry shop. Its a glass building designed by an Italian. I mused, here is globalization, a building architected by an Italian to house a British Brand (Burberry) in a german city.
It was a surreal day to visit Cologne, especially the jail. Just the previous evening while sauntering around Brussels we saw a huge protest gathering in front of their Foreign office. All had green flags with crescent moon, so I presumed it must be Muslims protesting. Only when I checked the internet did I find the world enraged at the Israel flotilla incident. Next day in the train station I saw European newspapers all screaming murder. Now slowly considered opinion is emerging and saying "not so fast". But hey when it comes to Israel who cares about facts or waiting to know facts. I shall just leave it at that.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Brussels: Immigration debate and contempt for 'made in China'
Yesterday we took a hop-on hop-off in Brussels. Having read the tour books before I knew that all museums are closed on Monday. We still decided on the tour to get familiar and also to kind of recuperate from a tiring trip to Bruges on Sumday. The weather was cloudy too. The first stop we got off was the "atomium". Just a simple blow up of an atom. It was constructed during the 1958 world expo. The construction is more like a molecule with atoms at vertices. One atom contained extensive history on immigration in Brussels. Given the recent shenanigans in Arizona I was very curious to see that.
One exhibit succinctly declares "Immigration is not an unmitigated good nor is it the root cause of all evils". No such museum in USA would dare to state that. I've been to Ellis Island, New York and its all about how America welcomed the immigrants. The poem by Emma Lazarus at the pedestal of "Statue of liberty" in fact proclaims 'give me your tired and huddled masses'. It is exactly that which is being called into question now as USA struggles with 12million+ illegal immigrants and with no end in sight of new ones crossing over by the day. I appreciate the honesty of Belgians in putting the issue in politically incorrect phrases. Many exhbits drove home the point how immigration is a mixed blessing.
One exhbit stated exactly what Hispanics in USA often tell immigration opponents, "we do the work that no native Belgian is ready to do". Another exhibit framed the economic concerns plainly "when economy does well businesses need immigrants to supplement local labor, during recession it becomes a flash point".
The pivotal point on immigration is about 'assimilation', one exhibit stares at that issue forthrightly "they are immigrants when they come, they are immigrants when they live amongst us, WHEN will they become US?". I am a big votary of assimilation. We immigrants "CHOOSE" to go to a particular country. Especially a country like USA makes it possible to become citizens and raise families. We owe it to America to be Americans. I find it obnoxious when Indians derisively say "oh this is a country of immigrants". On that score only Africa, anthropologically speaking; is purely native. America, in the course of its history, has gained a certain character, its THAT character that has America what it is today. Whether its Mexicans or Indians I expect them to play by the rules and be good Americans. If Mexicans or Indians want to replicate their homeland in USA they might as well buy a ticket home.
After the 'atomium' visit we just stopped by sundry memorials. Every such building is stamped with Gothic architecture. Ornate, yes, unique, no.
The other interesting stop was at a shop to buy some lace work. We saw two very exquisite table cloths. One was priced at 90 Euro (including 8 napkins), the other was 140 Euro (no napkins). I asked why the price difference. The store woman answered with derision "oh the cheaper one is 'made in China' ". I pressed further 'well they look alike so what is the difference'. More condescension from the woman "oh they imitate very well but the fabric is cotton whereas Belgian lace is made out of linen'. I wanted to ask her 'well if the CHinese can imitate so well what stops them from doing it on linen too?". As an Ameican I am used to "Made in China", when Apple can brag "Designed in California and made in China", what can anyone say. Its typical Old Europe, snobbish. But I got to give it to her the children's clothing she showed were far superior to some of the best I've seen in USA.
We also visited another sundry sight called "mini Europe". Its a small collection of minature models of chief buildings of EU member countries like British Parliament, Eiffel Tower etc. The park had a brochure with info on EU and each country. The brochure boasted about superior quality of life in EU Vs USA, especially with respect to pension benefits. The newspapers of the day carried news on how across the EU pension benefits are being cut. With the very future of EU in question I found the brochure to be churlish. Also why the comparison with USA. Even in the good old days EU could not stand against USA on economic or military benchmark.
The day ended with a visit to Haagen Daaz resturant. Yes, HD runs restaurants here. The HD outlets we have in USA are pathetic compared to what I saw here. This is gourmet food at its best. Who could have thought of combining cafe latte and a vanilla scoop...drooling. The ice cream choices and smoothies are a world away from the cheap "Dairy Queen", "Coldstone" variety. One thing which surprised me in Zurich was the Lindt stores. We have Lindt stores in USA too but the selections are a paltry subset of what they sell in Zurich. Likewise we have Godiva chocolate outlets in USA but that is nothing compared to what I see in Belgium. Haagen Daz only sells ice cream scoops in USA (like Baskin robbins in India, 11 years back) not the finer selections. Its been 7 days since we had anything Indian to eat and we dont miss it, yet....
Bottomline when it comes to food and clothing Europe wins hands down. America scores by a mile on affordability and variety of a different scale. Other than Harrod's in UK (where only the rich can shop) there is no rival to the quintessential American mall. I remember an article by Malcolm Gladwell on the science behind mega malls and how its an American phenomenon.
One exhibit succinctly declares "Immigration is not an unmitigated good nor is it the root cause of all evils". No such museum in USA would dare to state that. I've been to Ellis Island, New York and its all about how America welcomed the immigrants. The poem by Emma Lazarus at the pedestal of "Statue of liberty" in fact proclaims 'give me your tired and huddled masses'. It is exactly that which is being called into question now as USA struggles with 12million+ illegal immigrants and with no end in sight of new ones crossing over by the day. I appreciate the honesty of Belgians in putting the issue in politically incorrect phrases. Many exhbits drove home the point how immigration is a mixed blessing.
One exhbit stated exactly what Hispanics in USA often tell immigration opponents, "we do the work that no native Belgian is ready to do". Another exhibit framed the economic concerns plainly "when economy does well businesses need immigrants to supplement local labor, during recession it becomes a flash point".
The pivotal point on immigration is about 'assimilation', one exhibit stares at that issue forthrightly "they are immigrants when they come, they are immigrants when they live amongst us, WHEN will they become US?". I am a big votary of assimilation. We immigrants "CHOOSE" to go to a particular country. Especially a country like USA makes it possible to become citizens and raise families. We owe it to America to be Americans. I find it obnoxious when Indians derisively say "oh this is a country of immigrants". On that score only Africa, anthropologically speaking; is purely native. America, in the course of its history, has gained a certain character, its THAT character that has America what it is today. Whether its Mexicans or Indians I expect them to play by the rules and be good Americans. If Mexicans or Indians want to replicate their homeland in USA they might as well buy a ticket home.
After the 'atomium' visit we just stopped by sundry memorials. Every such building is stamped with Gothic architecture. Ornate, yes, unique, no.
The other interesting stop was at a shop to buy some lace work. We saw two very exquisite table cloths. One was priced at 90 Euro (including 8 napkins), the other was 140 Euro (no napkins). I asked why the price difference. The store woman answered with derision "oh the cheaper one is 'made in China' ". I pressed further 'well they look alike so what is the difference'. More condescension from the woman "oh they imitate very well but the fabric is cotton whereas Belgian lace is made out of linen'. I wanted to ask her 'well if the CHinese can imitate so well what stops them from doing it on linen too?". As an Ameican I am used to "Made in China", when Apple can brag "Designed in California and made in China", what can anyone say. Its typical Old Europe, snobbish. But I got to give it to her the children's clothing she showed were far superior to some of the best I've seen in USA.
We also visited another sundry sight called "mini Europe". Its a small collection of minature models of chief buildings of EU member countries like British Parliament, Eiffel Tower etc. The park had a brochure with info on EU and each country. The brochure boasted about superior quality of life in EU Vs USA, especially with respect to pension benefits. The newspapers of the day carried news on how across the EU pension benefits are being cut. With the very future of EU in question I found the brochure to be churlish. Also why the comparison with USA. Even in the good old days EU could not stand against USA on economic or military benchmark.
The day ended with a visit to Haagen Daaz resturant. Yes, HD runs restaurants here. The HD outlets we have in USA are pathetic compared to what I saw here. This is gourmet food at its best. Who could have thought of combining cafe latte and a vanilla scoop...drooling. The ice cream choices and smoothies are a world away from the cheap "Dairy Queen", "Coldstone" variety. One thing which surprised me in Zurich was the Lindt stores. We have Lindt stores in USA too but the selections are a paltry subset of what they sell in Zurich. Likewise we have Godiva chocolate outlets in USA but that is nothing compared to what I see in Belgium. Haagen Daz only sells ice cream scoops in USA (like Baskin robbins in India, 11 years back) not the finer selections. Its been 7 days since we had anything Indian to eat and we dont miss it, yet....
Bottomline when it comes to food and clothing Europe wins hands down. America scores by a mile on affordability and variety of a different scale. Other than Harrod's in UK (where only the rich can shop) there is no rival to the quintessential American mall. I remember an article by Malcolm Gladwell on the science behind mega malls and how its an American phenomenon.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Bruges: More Canals and a Michaelangelo statue.
Bruges (Brugge in Flemish) is called "the Venice of Northern Europe". Wateways cut across the city just like Venice. The city is as pretty as they come in Europe. Its an hour and half from Brussels. A convenient day trip by bus (picked up from hotel) was tempting. After 2 days of what are called "bus tours" I am a little disenchanted with them. They are the most convenient for a family with a toddler. We get picked up at hotel (especially when you stay at some hotel like Hilton), we are dropped back at our door step. No need to get train tickets, to and fro stations, etc BUT these tour guides will take you to places like unncessary shopping just to line their pockets. In a 5 hour trip we lost precious time because our tour guide took everyone to a chocolate shop, this to people coming from Brussels, total waste. He kept winding through the same monastery garden twice. Charming as it was, it was just an unkempt garden nothing great. During the Amsterdam trip instead of giving us an hour extra to go places the tour guide took us to a humdrum craft store which people used more for the restroom than anything else since the 3 hour return trip was non-stop.
The two chief places in Bruges are "church of our lady" and "Basilica of blood". We managed to visit "church of our lady". This church is known for just one thing, a statue by Michaelangelo. As anything by Michaelangelo the statue of "Madonna and The Child" is exquisite. I am no art critic so I shall stop with that but what kicked up my curiosity was that the statue was made in 1504. Imagine this. An Italian sculptor is known across the continent in 1500's so much that the local aristocrat goes to great lengths (its 1504) to acquire a sculpture by him and bring it to Bruges. In his book "Geography of thought" Nisbet argues that a Greek would love to travel just to see a play or a performance. Nisbet calls that a typical 'western mind'. An oriental mind would not do that and would rather prefer to see "the world in a grain of sand".
During our walk around the city we saw a woman by the door knitting a lace. She was using 100+ spindles. We snapped away but she did not lift her head once. Apparently they are arranged to showcase the talent and merchandise of Bruges.
Rowena then wanted to go on a boat ride. Given the time crunch I had to sacrifice "Basilica of blood". Flowers, flowers, flowers everywhere for the europeans. Everywhere you turn its made for picture post cards. These places are a photographer's delight. Cruising the waterways behind the houses we saw snippets of Bruges household life. Most curtains were of the 'lace' kind. People enjoy having lunch/dinner out on the backyard overlooking waterways. Everybody looked like they are in no rush. THe laid out table was always perfect with flatware and wine goblets.Bruges is to Belgium what Lucerne is to Switzerland. Better to stay in Bruges than in Brussels, the hotels are swanky.Yet again the food at a local "Brasserie Vivaldi" was just too good.
The highlight of the boat trip was retrieving a hat. A tourist on the street lost his hat to the wind. Our good boatman decided that it was his duty to retrieve the soggy hat. He manouvered the boat, used his ubmrella as stick etc and did finally toss the hat back to the amused tourist on the ground above us. I was perplexed because my bus was waiting also the back and forth in a tiny canoe filled with people was not a great idea. Apparently there are no tort lawyers in Europe (or Bruges at least). The boat would not be allowed license in USA. No life jackets, we do not sign any waivers, the canals with low clearances had no warning notices. The whole scenery was simply unaffected by litigation concerns.
Our next trips around Brussels and Cologne we decided to do it ourselves. Lets see how that turns out.
The two chief places in Bruges are "church of our lady" and "Basilica of blood". We managed to visit "church of our lady". This church is known for just one thing, a statue by Michaelangelo. As anything by Michaelangelo the statue of "Madonna and The Child" is exquisite. I am no art critic so I shall stop with that but what kicked up my curiosity was that the statue was made in 1504. Imagine this. An Italian sculptor is known across the continent in 1500's so much that the local aristocrat goes to great lengths (its 1504) to acquire a sculpture by him and bring it to Bruges. In his book "Geography of thought" Nisbet argues that a Greek would love to travel just to see a play or a performance. Nisbet calls that a typical 'western mind'. An oriental mind would not do that and would rather prefer to see "the world in a grain of sand".
During our walk around the city we saw a woman by the door knitting a lace. She was using 100+ spindles. We snapped away but she did not lift her head once. Apparently they are arranged to showcase the talent and merchandise of Bruges.
Rowena then wanted to go on a boat ride. Given the time crunch I had to sacrifice "Basilica of blood". Flowers, flowers, flowers everywhere for the europeans. Everywhere you turn its made for picture post cards. These places are a photographer's delight. Cruising the waterways behind the houses we saw snippets of Bruges household life. Most curtains were of the 'lace' kind. People enjoy having lunch/dinner out on the backyard overlooking waterways. Everybody looked like they are in no rush. THe laid out table was always perfect with flatware and wine goblets.Bruges is to Belgium what Lucerne is to Switzerland. Better to stay in Bruges than in Brussels, the hotels are swanky.Yet again the food at a local "Brasserie Vivaldi" was just too good.
The highlight of the boat trip was retrieving a hat. A tourist on the street lost his hat to the wind. Our good boatman decided that it was his duty to retrieve the soggy hat. He manouvered the boat, used his ubmrella as stick etc and did finally toss the hat back to the amused tourist on the ground above us. I was perplexed because my bus was waiting also the back and forth in a tiny canoe filled with people was not a great idea. Apparently there are no tort lawyers in Europe (or Bruges at least). The boat would not be allowed license in USA. No life jackets, we do not sign any waivers, the canals with low clearances had no warning notices. The whole scenery was simply unaffected by litigation concerns.
Our next trips around Brussels and Cologne we decided to do it ourselves. Lets see how that turns out.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
Amsterdam: Land of Canals, cycles, philosophy and carnality
Yesterday we took a day trip to Amsterdam. After a sumptuous breakfast at the hotel (wonderful filling spread) a bus picked us up. I was prepared that this trip would be an insult to Amsterdam, it would give us just a glimpse, actually only a peek. The commute was 6 hours to and fro Brussels. As soon as we entered Amsterdam we passed by "President Kennedy's Lane" to a boat trip. Most boats are covered with a glass canopy the reason being that the canals have very low clearance so to prevent accident they have canopies. A bus load of mostly old chinese joined us on the boat. What a ruckus they kicked up, safety advisories were brushed off, never kept the line, whipping out cell phone camera they ensured nobody else could have a decent shot.
The boat took us around Amsterdam's hundreds of canals. Amsterdam, like New Orleans, is under the sea level. Most construction is on foundation unique to the water level. Narrow streets, old houses, older cars, wide windows (used for many purposes like hanging your feet and having a drink). We cruised by the home where Anne Frank had lived in hiding prior to her capture. Anne Frank talks about Gandhi in her diary. What a life, what a diary!!! Rembrandt and Spinoza were other very famous residents. Rembrandt has a statue. No mention of Spinoza.
As we wove through the canals and I watched the steets I noted that there was ZERO posters or invitations to Amsterdam's most notorious area, "red light area". Prositution and drugs are legal. Drugs are sold in tea shops we were told. Yet the streets were clean. In NYC one could see taxis with advertisements for strip clubs and cards would be handed out brazenly at Times Square. I guess legalizing vice (adult pleasures) and cordoning it off keeps the rest of the city clean. No need of a Supreme Court to decide if an exotic dancer removing her G-string is protected by First Amendment right (expressing creativity).
Amsterdam moves on cycles. Cycles, cycles everywhere and they do not stop for anyone. Whether its Paris or Zurich or Amsterdam or Belgium one can safely assume a Pizzeria or some Italian variation will be within sight. Europe knows good food and good clothing. We have never been disappointed with food. Its extremely difficult for vegetarians though. Europeans love meat and sea food, chicken options are not much.
What impressed me most is Europeans are very stress free (excluding Greece for now). People take their own sweet time doing things, mostly smiling, enjoy food, enjoy leisure, put simply 'enjoy life'. On the other hand the dynamism of NYC, especially Times Square, is unmatched. Also the rich diversity of people is rarely seen in Europe.
A very curious incident happened in the courtyard before the palace. Suddenly some 'model' like girls showed up, they stripped down to their bikini's, started playing beach volleyball. Apparently they had a photo-shoot. No wonder the place got crowded in minutes.
On our way out we stopped by the only windmill within Amsterdam. Very picturesque. A Rembrandt statue was nearby. I really wished to see Anne Frank's home and some thing connected to Baruch Spinoza, well some other time.
The houses were all picture post card perfect. Most window sills were decorated with flowers. Homes in Switzerland were similar. I guess Europeans love neatly decorated homes.
This trip was only to give a tasting of Netherlands. Gotta go back some other time. Next day was a planned trip to Bruges.
The boat took us around Amsterdam's hundreds of canals. Amsterdam, like New Orleans, is under the sea level. Most construction is on foundation unique to the water level. Narrow streets, old houses, older cars, wide windows (used for many purposes like hanging your feet and having a drink). We cruised by the home where Anne Frank had lived in hiding prior to her capture. Anne Frank talks about Gandhi in her diary. What a life, what a diary!!! Rembrandt and Spinoza were other very famous residents. Rembrandt has a statue. No mention of Spinoza.
As we wove through the canals and I watched the steets I noted that there was ZERO posters or invitations to Amsterdam's most notorious area, "red light area". Prositution and drugs are legal. Drugs are sold in tea shops we were told. Yet the streets were clean. In NYC one could see taxis with advertisements for strip clubs and cards would be handed out brazenly at Times Square. I guess legalizing vice (adult pleasures) and cordoning it off keeps the rest of the city clean. No need of a Supreme Court to decide if an exotic dancer removing her G-string is protected by First Amendment right (expressing creativity).
Amsterdam moves on cycles. Cycles, cycles everywhere and they do not stop for anyone. Whether its Paris or Zurich or Amsterdam or Belgium one can safely assume a Pizzeria or some Italian variation will be within sight. Europe knows good food and good clothing. We have never been disappointed with food. Its extremely difficult for vegetarians though. Europeans love meat and sea food, chicken options are not much.
What impressed me most is Europeans are very stress free (excluding Greece for now). People take their own sweet time doing things, mostly smiling, enjoy food, enjoy leisure, put simply 'enjoy life'. On the other hand the dynamism of NYC, especially Times Square, is unmatched. Also the rich diversity of people is rarely seen in Europe.
A very curious incident happened in the courtyard before the palace. Suddenly some 'model' like girls showed up, they stripped down to their bikini's, started playing beach volleyball. Apparently they had a photo-shoot. No wonder the place got crowded in minutes.
On our way out we stopped by the only windmill within Amsterdam. Very picturesque. A Rembrandt statue was nearby. I really wished to see Anne Frank's home and some thing connected to Baruch Spinoza, well some other time.
The houses were all picture post card perfect. Most window sills were decorated with flowers. Homes in Switzerland were similar. I guess Europeans love neatly decorated homes.
This trip was only to give a tasting of Netherlands. Gotta go back some other time. Next day was a planned trip to Bruges.
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